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Which Longines Master Collection to buy: three-hand, moonphase or chronograph (2026)

The Master Collection is Longines' classic automatic dress watch, launched in 2005. Goldsmiths sells it as a simple three-hand watch, with a moonphase, as a chronograph and in smaller women's sizes. This is which one to buy, and what the extra money gets you.

By the Sterling Guild team · Updated 30 October 2026 · Prices checked daily at Goldsmiths · How we choose

Our top picks: Longines Master Collection, Longines Master Collection, Longines Master Collection

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Our top picks

  1. Best overallLongines Master Collection£2,100The 40mm in steel with an olive green dial and Roman numerals, with 72 hours of power reserve.
  2. Best barleycorn dialLongines Master Collection£2,250The 39mm with the collection's textured "barleycorn" dial in light blue, on a steel bracelet.
  3. Best moonphaseLongines Master Collection£3,350The 40mm chronograph with day, month, date and moonphase, on brown alligator.
  4. Best chronographLongines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher£3,350A hand-wound single-button chronograph with a frosted blue dial.
  5. Best for herLongines Master Collection£2,350The 34mm with a blue sunray dial and 12 diamond hour markers.
In this guide
  1. How we chose
  2. The Master Collection, in short
  3. Three-hand, moonphase or chronograph?
  4. The best Master Collection overall: 40mm olive green
  5. The best barleycorn dial: 39mm light blue
  6. The best moonphase: 40mm chronograph with moonphase
  7. The best chronograph: Chrono Monopusher
  8. The best Master Collection for her: 34mm blue with diamonds
  9. Is the Master Collection worth it?
  10. Questions people ask

The best Longines Master Collection for most people is the 40mm with an olive green dial and Roman numerals: Longines' L888 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve, in steel on a matching bracelet. For the collection's signature textured dial, the 39mm light blue "barleycorn"; for something more complicated, the moonphase chronograph or the hand-wound Monopusher.

Every watch here is sold new by Goldsmiths, a UK authorised retailer, at Goldsmiths' own price on the date shown.

How we chose

We went through every Master Collection watch Goldsmiths sells and compared the sizes, movements and dials from Goldsmiths' own product pages. Where a listing contradicted itself (a different size or water resistance in different places), we left that watch out rather than guess. We earn a commission if you buy through our links, which never changes the price you pay.

The Master Collection, in short

Longines launched the Master Collection in 2005, and Goldsmiths describes it as "inspired by the brand's vintage timepieces". It's a classic dress watch: polished steel, traditional dials, often the textured pattern Longines calls barleycorn, and blued or polished hands. The models in this guide are automatic apart from the hand-wound Monopusher, and water resistant to 30 metres.

Watch Size Movement Power reserve Extras Price
Olive green, Roman numerals 40mm Automatic, L888 72 hours Date £2,100
Light blue barleycorn 39mm Automatic Up to 72 hours Date £2,250
Moonphase chronograph 40mm Automatic, L687 66 hours Chronograph, day, month, date, moonphase £3,350
Chrono Monopusher 41mm Hand-wound About 68 hours Chronograph £3,350
Blue, diamond markers 34mm Automatic, L888 72 hours 12 diamond hour markers £2,350

Three-hand, moonphase or chronograph?

This is the main choice, and it's mostly about how much you want the watch to do.

  • Three-hand with date (from about £2,100): the purest Master Collection. Slim, easy to wear every day, and the cheapest way in.
  • Moonphase chronograph (about £3,350): the full traditional dial, with a stopwatch, day, month, date and the phase of the moon. More to look at, and more to set.
  • Chronograph (about £3,350): the Monopusher is a stopwatch worked by a single button, wound by hand rather than self-winding: a watch for someone who enjoys the mechanics.

The best Master Collection overall: 40mm olive green

An olive green sunray dial with applied Roman numerals, in a 40mm stainless steel case on a matching bracelet, powered by Longines' L888 automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve, according to Goldsmiths. Seventy-two hours means it keeps running from Friday evening to Monday morning off the wrist. The green dial is less expected than blue or silver, without being loud.

Longines Master Collection
Best overallLongines Master Collection L27934096 · 40mm · Automatic · 30 m water resistant £2,100Price at Goldsmiths, 31 October 2026 Full specsSee it at Goldsmiths

The best barleycorn dial: 39mm light blue

The textured "barleycorn" dial is the Master Collection's signature, and this 39mm version has it in light blue. Goldsmiths lists a self-winding movement with a silicon balance spring (which resists magnetism) and a power reserve of up to 72 hours, a date, a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, and a steel bracelet with a fine-adjustment clasp. At 39mm it's a touch smaller than the 40mm, for a slimmer wrist or a more classic look.

Longines Master Collection
Best barleycorn dialLongines Master Collection L29494996 · 39mm · Automatic · 30 m water resistant £2,250Price at Goldsmiths, 31 October 2026 Full specsSee it at Goldsmiths

The two three-hand models side by side:

WatchPriceCaseMovementWater resistanceCrystalPower reserveStrap
Longines Master Collection£2,10040mm stainless steelAutomatic30 m—72 hoursStainless steel
Longines Master Collection£2,25039mm stainless steelAutomatic30 mSapphire72 hoursStainless steel

Prices at Goldsmiths on 31 October 2026. Specifications from Goldsmiths' product pages and the brands' own pages; where they differ, we use the brand's figure.

The best moonphase: 40mm chronograph with moonphase

The most complicated Master Collection in this guide: a stopwatch, the day and month in windows, the date on a central hand with a half-moon tip, and the moonphase at 6 o'clock, on a silver barleycorn dial with blued steel hands. It's a 40mm steel case on a brown alligator strap with the collection's contrasting stitching, powered by Longines' L687 automatic movement with 66 hours of power reserve, according to Goldsmiths.

Longines Master Collection
Best moonphaseLongines Master Collection L26734783 · 40mm · Automatic · 30 m water resistant £3,350Price at Goldsmiths, 31 October 2026 Full specsSee it at Goldsmiths

The best chronograph: Chrono Monopusher

A chronograph worked by a single button: one press starts it, the next stops it, the next sets it back to zero. Goldsmiths lists a 41mm steel case, a frosted blue barleycorn dial and a hand-wound mechanical movement with a power reserve of about 68 hours, on an alligator strap. Winding it by hand every couple of days is part of the appeal: it's the most traditional watch in the collection.

Longines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher
Best chronographLongines Master Collection Chrono Monopusher L29604932 · 41mm · Manual Winding · 30 m water resistant £3,350Price at Goldsmiths, 31 October 2026 Full specsSee it at Goldsmiths

The best Master Collection for her: 34mm blue with diamonds

A blue sunray dial with 12 diamond hour markers, in a 34mm stainless steel case on a matching bracelet, powered by the same L888 automatic movement as the men's 40mm, with a 72-hour power reserve, according to Goldsmiths. 34mm is large enough to read easily and small enough to sit neatly on a slim wrist.

Longines Master Collection
Best for herLongines Master Collection L23574976 · 34mm · Automatic · 30 m water resistant £2,350Price at Goldsmiths, 31 October 2026 Full specsSee it at Goldsmiths

For a smaller watch, Goldsmiths also sells the Master Collection in 30mm and 25.5mm, including a 25.5mm with a silver barleycorn dial at £1,800, the least expensive Master Collection when we checked.

Is the Master Collection worth it?

If you want a classic automatic dress watch from a major Swiss brand, yes: for about £2,100 you get a Longines movement with a 72-hour power reserve, in a traditional design that the collection has kept since 2005. If you want a watch to swim in, it isn't the one: look at the HydroConquest instead. And if you'd rather a slimmer quartz dress watch for a woman, see which La Grande Classique to buy.

More Longines Master Collection watches

16 more from Goldsmiths, from £2,100 to £14,200. Prices and specifications are Goldsmiths' own; we haven't written about these ones in detail.

Questions people ask

Is the Longines Master Collection automatic?
Every Master Collection watch in this guide is self-winding (automatic) except one: the Chrono Monopusher, which is wound by hand, with about 68 hours of power reserve, according to Goldsmiths.
Is the Longines Master Collection a good watch?
It's a classic automatic dress watch from a major Swiss brand, with a traditional dial and a Longines movement. The 40mm three-hand models, such as the olive green one, cost about £2,100 at Goldsmiths when we checked and have a 72-hour power reserve, so they keep running over a weekend off the wrist.
Is the Longines Master Collection waterproof?
No. The models in this guide are water resistant to 30 metres (3 bar), according to Goldsmiths: fine for rain and hand-washing, but take it off before a shower or a swim. For a Longines you can swim with, see which HydroConquest to buy.
Which size Longines Master Collection should I get?
For men, Goldsmiths sells it mainly in 39mm, 40mm and 41mm. 39mm and 40mm suit most wrists for a dress watch; the 41mm Monopusher is the largest. For women, there are 25.5mm, 30mm and 34mm models; the 34mm is the easiest of those to read.
Is there a Longines Master Collection GMT?
Goldsmiths didn't list a Master Collection GMT when we checked. For a travel watch with a second time zone, see our best GMT watches.
Longines Master Collection or Conquest?
The Master Collection is the dressier watch: traditional dials, often on leather, and water resistant to 30 metres. The Conquest is Longines' sports watch, made for everyday wear and water. Our Spirit vs Conquest guide covers the sportier side of Longines.

How we write these guides: every watch is one you can buy new from a UK authorised retailer. Prices and specifications come from the retailer's own product page, and anything extra comes from the brand's website. We check prices and stock every morning, but they can change, so the retailer's page always has the final word. No brand or retailer pays to appear. Read how we choose watches and jewellery and our editorial policy; spotted a mistake? Email contact@sterlingguild.co.uk.